We are active members of the Gordon Setter Club of America. For the better part of three decades we have donated our time and resources to support Field Trials, Hunt Tests, Specialty Shows, Supported Entries, Breed Rescue, and field training days in support of Gordon Setters and the running of regional Gordon Setter Club of America business.
We offer this website in part to educate and share our knowledge from our years of experience with the breed. Yes, occasionally we offer Gordon Setter puppies for sale and this site helps get the word out. Tamdhu breeds infrequently with quality our primary goal, not quantity. We plan litters carefully with these objectives in mind; hunting drive, stamina, style, trainability, conformation, temperament, and health. The Gordon Setter Puppies for sale page details our breeding plans and availability.
Our broad network means we can often select from among the best dogs available in the breed. We are not limited to what is sitting in our kennel and are not kennel blind. Breedings are objectively evaluated with care to assure it improves the breed, our lines, and advances our goals.
A well bred, well balanced Gordon Setter –
Beauty, Brains, and Birdsense: “BBB”
We remain dedicated to the improvement and preservation of the Gordon Setter breed as represented by the American Kennel Club and the Gordon Setter Club of America. We enjoy Gordon Setters big and small but have a preference for those that fit right in the middle of the breed standard. Gordon Setters demonstrating correct conformation to become a bench Champion and excel in the field by earning Field Trial Championship are Dual Champion dogs. While we do not compete in the arena of field trials ourselves, we strive for a balance of upland hunting performance, mental agility and stability, and conformation. We will draw genetics from conformationally balanced proven hunting and field trial lines at every possibility.
Bird sense – the first “B“
In regions with high hunting pressure Ruffed Grouse are difficult to hunt. A pointing dog needs a boatload of experience and bird sense to hunt them well. Ruffed Grouse often sneak off point and flush well ahead of the dog in a thunderous whir from heavy cover. Somewhere someone said it takes 500 grouse contacts to make a grouse dog. Some dogs never get enough experience. Others just never really figure them out. Dogs that have the right combination of bird sense, training, and experience can reliably hunt and point Ruffed Grouse.
When properly conditioned a Gordon is capable of full day of work. They are not the fastest dogs afield but neither should they plod along. Our Gordons can hunt several days back to back for much of the season. With proper conditioning, nutrition, and rest, they improve in stamina and endurance as the season goes on. As expected, cooler weather helps as black dogs don’t tolerate full sun and warm temps well.
We like our Gordon’s to hunt beyond gun range with a keen interest in seeking birds and an efficient work-man-like attitude. In heavy cover they will be out of sight much of the time and check in on their own. A bell, beeper collar or modern GPS tracking system is crucial to track progress in cover. This style of hunting, with the dog out of sight can be uncomfortable to the uninitiated. We like a dog that ranges well, is honest, holds point for great periods of time, and doesn’t bust birds. We expect to cover large tracts of ground efficiently.
There are fanciers of Gordon Setters suggesting “field bred” or “western” style Gordon Setters are born different than their eastern-born brethren. No doubt genetics play a role in the natural range a dog works but so does exposure, training and opportunity. In open country a dog that works 100 – 400 yards is a comfortable range for foot hunters. Others may push that out a bit more. Some like dogs work out a half mile or more. If you seek this type of dog choose your lines carefully and do your groundwork. It is estimated 30-35% of performance is genetic based, the rest is development, environmental, conditioning, training and nutrition. Tamdhu “dual type” dogs adjust range nicely. Ego and pride drives much of the east / west / field bred labeling, superficially dividing the breed and people. The breed is too small and limited for this degree of division. Don’t fall for it.
If western style grassland hunting is important to you, start with proven hunting background and then start with early exposure. Learn to not hack your dog and let them run, making sure they get bird contact when they range. A six year old Gordon that hasn’t set foot on the grasslands beforehand will never develop its full potential range no matter what side of a river it was born. Inexperienced dogs that blast out 400 yards in heavy grouse woods may quickly become lost. In WI/MI/MN we nickname these “wolf bait”. Dogs conditioned to check in adapt quickly.
A word about bells. At one time there was really no choice. There are plenty of traditionalists today that enjoy the sound of a bell ringing out. Furthermore, upland guides, group hunting, and certain field events benefit from or require bells so everyone in the vicinity can track dogs. Today though, some feel long term bell use impairs a dog’s hearing and can cause permanent hearing damage. Dogs wearing bells in heavy cover stop moving regularly to silence the bell so they can hear, interrupting field work. Some feel the sudden silence of a belled dog pointing can cause grouse to freeze or hold point longer, maybe. Grouse do what grouse do and certainly some grouse hold well for a bell-stopped dog. There are videos to document this occurrence. What should we think about birds flushing ahead of a belled dog or not heard over the bell at all? A bell’s limited range is useful for medium range work in heavy cover. Bells fall off rapidly in wind or in open terrain where there is less cover to reflect sound back to the handler. Once out of hearing range, a bell is useless.
Today many hunters prefer dog work managed through GPS tracking and electronic training “TT” tools. TT devices provide long distance tracking far beyond hearing range, miles with some systems. Many use bells for the close-in benefits with a TT devices for safety and control. It is virtually impossible to lose a dog with a TT. Some units can run several days on a single charge. Wolves in some regions are known to be drawn to the sound of a dog bell or beeper. Some wolves are not deterred by humans so lost dogs must be recovered quickly.
Modern electronic TT tools provide training (tone, vibration and stimulation) useful in critical situations. Use these to reinforce recall when distracted or when beyond hearing range, deer (trash) breaking, porcupine, snake, and road avoidance. Don’t be intimidated by this technology. It works well, is compact, reliable, and easy to manage. It conveys a level of safety and peace of mind not attainable any other way.
Some people have said, and we’ve read in major hunting dog rags that dogs competing in a show ring do not perform as well as pure “field strain” dogs. Trotting a dog in a ring on a leash doesn’t change qualities as a hunting dog. The fact that Dual Champion dogs exist today simply disproves it. Dogs become Dual Champions by kicking some serious dog butt in the field trial world. They must display high levels of drive, independence, manners, and bird sense. There are no gimmies in the field trial world.
What is true is that it’s very difficult to breed and train a dog that can be competitive in both the field trial world and on the bench. This is why there are just a handful of Gordon Setter breeders in the U.S. up for this challenge. There are about 70 Dual Champions in the breed’s history. We admire these breeders and trainers for their success and will tap into their bloodlines at most every opportunity.
That said, there are some Gordon Setters parading around show rings that haven’t seen a bird in generations. In other cases they may have AKC Junior Hunting “JH” titles but the breeders don’t hunt seriously and lack a critical eye for field performance. At times non-hunting kennels will put JH’s on dogs simply to demonstrate some degree of hunt, which it does. In our opinion, a JH title demonstrates a dog will point, if only for a second or two, but says little about about drive, range, stamina, boldness, independence, style, intensity, or biddability. The AKC hunt test program is a wonderful way to get into pointing dog training and testing. JH tests provide minimal pressure and modest expectations, it’s fun for novices but ultimately it doesn’t prove much. Virtually all Gordon Setters have natural hunting ability and can earn a JH title. If you’re looking for a companion for walks in the woods where maybe twice a year you’ll carry a shotgun, then any old dogge’ might be acceptable. That’s okay with us. Just be sure you know what you want.
Others have suggested that hunters looking for working gun dogs should stay away from field trial line dogs. Generally this is undervalues what field trialing brings to the hunting dog world. Trialing is hard, tough, gritty, and expensive work. A dog must exhibit physical and mental soundness, ability to cover ground, use the wind and seek objectives, find and handle birds while demonstrating boldness and an appropriate degree of independence. These are traits that make great hunting dogs. Field Trial (FC) championships are awarded under independent judgment across multiple events, each event witnessed by scores of people. FC’s are not subject to the opinion of the breeder or owner.
If you really want an upland bird dog that stays inside gun range consider a nice flushing or retrieving dog. No kidding. You and your dog will both be a lot happier. I’ve gunned over and hunted over great flushing and retrieving dogs. If you go that way do your homework.
Some people prattle that they never kill a bird that’s not pointed blah, blah, blah. If the dog is 100 yards to the right and a grouse flushes 15 yards off the left, We will generally try to kill it, and allow anybody along to do the same if they wish. This is a training opportunity to teach hunt dead on a bird not marked down, to encourage the dog to check in regularly because the shotgun is where the action is, and to get yet another retrieve. Often enough the dog comes in to hunt dead and finds a live bird still holding. Bingo! We have a superb opportunity which the dog associates with me. Dogs pump up and hunt harder after bird contacts, especially if they’ve been on the ground a while and have the edge worn off.
We generally let beginning wing shooters shoot most flown birds while hunting, even if the dog pressured it. Woodcock are the exception, they must be pointed 100% of the time. They’re plentiful at times, hold point well, and re-flushes are common. They often flush low in heavy cover, compromising safe shooting. When shooting bumped birds is inappropriate for a specific dog we will wait for hunts where there’s more restraint. We shoot fewer woodcock these days and reserve them mostly for young dogs.
I may have beginners load for grouse while walking, then switch to spreader loads when walking in to a point. This is easier if they’re using a break open action shotgun. The right choke and load combination will increase a novice’s success rate. The only reason we’ll need grouse dogs in the future is if we create grouse hunters today.
If a dog accidentally bumps a grouse, it won’t be shot at by me. 90% of the time it won’t be shot at at all. If a novice wing shooter is along and can take a safe shot, we want them to go for it. This is a rare confluence of events! Beginners should have as much encouragement as possible and there is simply nothing better for them than connecting on a flown bird after an hour or two of hiking through cover. We’re not going to limit their opportunity to shoot that rare-to-them bird flying straight away simply because the bird and dog didn’t follow the rules. Good dogs with sound handling and training can take the very occasional shot at a bumped bird without degrading their bird work.
We use a copious number of quail each year training and testing our dogs. And we are not above a canned pheasant hunt from time to time. We are a hunting family and our dogs are proven on wild birds, not just farm raised poultry. As such, we concentrate on quality bird work on hard sought birds under real world conditions. This is where we judge our dogs and we aren’t going to mislead anyone with a ton of pictures taken under artificial conditions. Wild hunting conditions are challenging situations to get pictures, but we’re working on it.
Brains – the Second “B”
Hunting dogs are not generally noted for extreme intelligence, particularly in the obedience ring where other breeds rule. However, a bird dog with above average intelligence will get you further, faster than working with a dolt. We look for a Gordon Setter that is biddable, takes training well, is mentally stable, and tough enough to actually enjoy hard work. We look for lots of personality, a pleasant, sweet disposition, and an eagerness to please. Or as a visitor to Castle Gordon in Scotland remarked 180 years ago, “A most pettable dogge“.
A Gordon can earn difficult obedience and agility titles with dedicated owner / handlers. It simply requires a dose of patience, sense of humor, some true dog training skill, and an understanding of their Scottishness.
Some people believe their dogs are geniuses capable of reading minds and outsmarting attempts to train them. Tamdhu Gordon Setters are not geniuses, they read at a third grade level but struggle with second grade math. SAT scores are available on request.
Seriously though, intelligence is a product of many factors; good genetics, sound temperaments in the sire and dam and crucially, proper social development. Tamdhu pups begin mental and social development on day two of life when we initiate specific proven stimulation techniques to foster early neural development. We provide a rich stimulating environment throughout the first eight weeks. We expect puppy owners to continue providing an enriched, engaging environment. Nutrition is also major component of intelligence that many people undervalue. Optimal nutrition is critical for all aspects of physical and mental development, and performance.
Think of mental, social and physical development as an open window. We work hard to provide you a puppy with a wide open window thru much can pass. How quickly and tightly that window closes is up to you the owner. In poor situations the window was never opened very far and slams nearly closed in 6 months. In skilled, stimulating environments the window never closes.
Never accept a puppy of any breed separated from the litter at less than 8 weeks of age. If the breeder insists that it’s ok to sell pups before eight weeks, they are very wrong and should be avoided. The “magic of seven weeks” is an old fashioned concept that needs to go away. Adherents to the 7 week rule are lazy or ignorant, likely both. Important social and mental development occurs at this age that can not be replicated or revisited later. Dog on dog aggression and separation anxiety are behavior issues specifically linked to early separation from the dam and litter. Simply put there is no negotiating on this point. This is not an opinion, it’s a stone cold fact. Caring for a litter beyond 6+ weeks of age is a lot of work, reputable breeders take no shortcuts.
When you look into the eyes a well bred and socialized Gordon Setter you should see a calm, intelligent look, not chaos. They should be comfortable with eye contact and not see it as a challenge or threat and become unhinged.
Beauty – the Third “B”
We believe a conformationally correct and structurally sound Gordon Setter is the basis for a high performing sporting dog. Correct angulation, limb movement and overall solid structure make up the basis for efficient ground covering ability. It’s the basis for long term soundness. A well bred Gordon Setter in full, fluid motion is a remarkable sight.
Gordons come in a wide variety of sizes and are almost always black and tan. We prefer a Gordon Setter of medium size with females, in trim condition at 45-55 pounds and males perhaps 10 pounds heavier. They should be relatively square length to height, sturdy medium boned frame, a nice headpiece with a good forehead-stop, pronounced occiput (bump on the rear of the skull), lower ears, and a pleasing setter style head. Eyes dark colored and tight, please no screaming yellow beamers! Shoulders should be sleek, laid back, blended, not broad or chunky. The chest should be deep and with good fore chest for heart-lung capacity.
White hair in the middle of the chest from a few strands to a large blaze is common. As are white hairs on toes. The original Gordon Setter bred and favored by the Duke of Gordon were tri-colored. The AKC and pressure from show fanciers established black and tan as the preferred coloration today. Occasionally red or liver colored Gordon Setters appear. Some people suggest these are special, they aren’t. They are just uncommon. An inexpensive genetic test now allows breeders to identify red gene carriers. As a result the frequency of red Gordon Setters continues to drop, more-so with breeders who use genetic testing tools to responsibly identify other potential health issues lurking in the background. Breeder’s that don’t identify the presences of red-recessive genes in their lines usually don’t know of other health issues lurking. They are playing genetic roulette unnecessarily.
Hair coat varies from very short to long and flowing. It can be straight as preferred in the standard, or wavy. Some have wooly coats, others are sleek. The eye should be intelligent, tight, and the darker the better. Our ideal Gordon has a medium length, straight coat. This doesn’t always please the bench judge but is tolerable for field work where excessive coat can be a hindrance. Most Gordon Setters benefit from grooming before heading into the field anyway.
Page updated 7/20/2024